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Suddenly, the engine is silent. The boat aboard which we slip a few hours on the Madre de Dios River slowly lets go with the flow. A finger on his lips, the boatman tells gesticulating a sandy beach bordering the lush jungles of the Peruvian Amazon. Baffled, we few tens of seconds to see it. Two yellow topaz eyes glow in the shade of a huge trunk of dead wood. Laying there, sphinx, a jaguar is watching ... A leap would be enough to reach us. Luck is too good, then, quietly, suppressing somehow our nerves, we decided to grab it and try an approach. The beast rises and, as if to mock us, nonchalantly goes a little further down the beach, revealing under the sun its sublime spotted coat. He will continue his nap on the edge of the forest, still eying us from this intense look.
While much more quiet and shy than its cousins, wild jaguar is not such an unusual encounter for the visitor who ventures into the Manu National Park. This nature reserve (there are 11 in Peru), still preserved of all the horrors of the outside world, covers more than a million and a half acres and has the greatest biodiversity on the planet. A title less eloquent than the figures illustrate.
It counts for example some 850 species of birds. On one small plot, researchers identified 200 different tree species. On the website of Unesco, which recognized as the core of the Manu Biosphere Reserve in 1977 before as World Heritage Site ten years later, it is reported that about 200 species of mammals 100 species of bats and 77 species of amphibians live there. Already considerable, though these figures are understated. The vast majority of the reserve has indeed never been explored. Only a small area (about 20%) is available to researchers and scientists as well as tourists blessed with a permit issued by a small number of agencies.
But it is not enough to fill paper formalities to access Manu. It comes after a journey of several days, as the saying goes, is as important as the destination. After leaving Cuzco, which rises to 3400 meters in the heart of the Andes, it is necessary to cross the mountains by jeep on steep slopes to reach the site of Tres Cruces de Oro (Three Gold Cross), where Andes meet the Amazon. According to legend, the sunrise would produce the illusion of three cross floating above the forest. Here at nearly 4,000 meters above sea level, we appreciate the spectacle of the Amazon extending like a carpet on the horizon; that Claude Levi-Strauss liked precisely describe in Tristes Tropiques as "a heap of frozen bubbles, a vertical pile of green blisters."The mind numbed by altitude sickness, muscle shivering in the bitter cold running through the thick layers of clothing, heavy clouds are patient before this striking mural and when the first rays flashed on the landscape, or percent the weather warms instantly. Go through Tres Cruces involves a detour of several hours and forced to wake up in the middle of the night so as not to miss the first light of dawn. But this viewpoint Andes is the step most symbolic, the perfect entry point for anyone coming in the Amazon for the first time. Because it allows, among others, to see the evolution of trees and vegetation along the descent.
We pass through small villages like Kosnipata ("Above the Clouds"), where coca growers, whose leaf is used to make cocaine but also serves as a basic ingredient for Coca-Cola are working, and percolates in drink against altitude sickness. Arrived in Atalaya, we exchange our jeep against a canoe, on which the rest of the journey will unfold. Every day is between five and six hours of sailing ahead on the Madre de Dios, who travels the Amazon along the Manu National Park nearly 100 kilometers to finally sink into the public area of the reserve. As we progress to the mountains melt away into the forest.On the banks, there is soil erosion and the watchful eye will detect black or white caimans, turtles and jaguars that rest there. In some places the vegetation has covered dead trees, rising above the other trees, ceibas overlook the forest. These giants with sometimes white trunks and carved by rather large buttresses to house one or two men, along this part of the Amazon. This same ceiba which according to the Mayans of Central America, contained the spirit of the forest. Other trees stand out from the crowd, such as mahogany or cedar Amazon: two of the world's most expensive deer species.
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