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The greatest explorer of the Enlightenment he crushed black that day? After the Marquesas and New Hebrides, had he seen too much not to drop anchor at an armful of paradise? When in September 1774, James Cook sailed along the island pocket, located south of the main island of New Caledonia, he was not only legitimate fear that his ship aground on coral reefs, but he was also the victim of a seeing things sacred. A native of Yorkshire, probably more accustomed in his youth to tread the wild moors of his beloved England to go up a coconut tree and took by far the slender silhouettes and insolent columnar pines lining the shores to the mast of a menacing alien armada. The two naturalists who accompanied Foster father and son, were little more savvy, who saw the presence of basalt columns similar to the Giant's Causeway, Ireland. It is only upon his arrival to the island bitter for wetting the crew realized it was trees. Specimens of such rare and endemic majestic pines that the English captain decided to baptize their name this piece of land of beauty to believe mirages. More than two centuries later, it is not uncommon, moreover, that after seeing the Isle of Pines, one is tempted to speak of a mere illusion, a hallucination or, better yet, conceal his existence just to keep for yourself this discreet hideout Robinson reduced on a world map, the size of a pinhead stung on the Tropic of Capricorn. Here, no charters or resorts. We can not with impunity Kunié (name of the island in Melanesia), there walks slowly after traveling more than 17 000 km for metro, made a stop in Noumea before embarking on an ATR 42 or fast catamaran. If, in high season, the dock of the Bay of Kuto - a new ferry terminal must be born in 2016 - can become the podium by a parade of Australian and Japanese cruisers, walking on the beach Kanumera enough to experience dear printing Rilke to be "irresistibly alone."
Invariably, the body jettisons. The hours stretch. A soft waiver announcement. Given this landscape of tropical Tuscan whose reliefs bristle strange exotic cypress, eyes linger. It follows, blossom water, languid lines lagoon heckled by the verticality of the araucaria planted to guard you along the coastline. He plays the hieratic posture of these giants - up to 60 meters high - umbrella a funny tuft of brush-brush: a pointed crown composed of "scales on twigs arranged in dihedral" would correct a scientist. Do not mess with these worthy archaic survivors vegetation Triassic, dating back to the beginning of the era of the dinosaurs, there are 230 million years. Plant emblem of New Caledonia, belongs to the columnar pine immemorial heritage that the island was anxious to preserve shows by including evidence of a kind of resistance to the excesses of extreme modernity. "We are not against the development of tourism, but we do not step on the scale of our island, says Hilarion Vendegou, former mayor, senator UMP and great traditional chief ... If we see too large, we runs the risk of undermining our environment. We do not want to. All that is done preserve our natural resources, our beaches, our beautiful forests ... And the smile of the population. For we are all richer for what nature gives us. "Eight tribes (Ouatchia, Ouapan, Touété, Youwaty, Vao, Gadji Comagna, Kere) perpetuate exchanges initiated centuries ago by their ancestors. If Lapita pottery fragments discovered at Vao, testify to a former attachment of Kunié to an area of Pacific communication, probably 1500 years BC, the remains of circular structures in the ground and shot iron found on the board, the presence of piles of fossil coral in the forest area attest to the settlement of the island at a time extremely remote. Fishermen and farmers had settled on the coast and inland, well before the arrival of Polynesian catechists Protestants from the London Missionary Society in 1840, even today, even though they are becoming more living from tourism, 2,806 inhabitants of the Isle of Pines remain deeply attached to the Mother Nature, the land to which they belong ... and not vice versa. "We Kanak, we were environmentalists before the time," like repeating the footballer Christian Karembeu, born on the nearby island of Lifou. Respect for the environment, the worship of the old, the importance of traditional authorities have effectively avoided backhoes property developers - years of palaver preceding the construction of the Hotel Meridien - the privatization of beaches, the mass of vegetation which, after being improperly exploited by sandalwood in the nineteenth century seems to have finally reclaimed its destruction.
Coastal savanna to the limestone forest, nature provides new gross disarming. On the East Coast, in particular, it explodes, measurement exalted blue lagoon, green mesh in a lush, dense garden without grid and safe, but access, lack of footpaths - except one Upi Bay connecting to that of Oro - often remains difficult. What ever! This almost circular island, the show is over. Bay Kanuméra in Kuto Bay, an arbor, born interlacing branches of secular bugnys, transports the visitor into a Forest Dark Forest. To the north, near Gadji, the view of the bay beach crabs reveals a typical postcard of the "closest to the paradise island" with its blessed pines up like pointed skyward index. To the south, a climb to the peak N'Ga (262 meters), to discover other perspectives: the distance, the island Brush and yet another stand of Araucaria, closer, close to the tribe of Comagna few specimen more isolated if the play alone. A configuration that is no coincidence. Traditionally planted on the aisle that leads to big boxes, the columnar pine is the oldest residential witness, usually erected for men of high rank. Tjibaou Cultural Centre in Noumea, a "Kanak Path" perfectly illustrates the symbolic plant in Melanesian culture. Consisting of many species, this course includes a history of the founding hero Tea Kanaké first born of all men whose origin is rooted in the earliest oral tradition of the area paicî-cèmuhi.
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