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The 4 x 4 just pound facing a wall of green that seems insurmountable. "It's Corkova Uvala" says soberly store that leads us. In other words, the valley Corak, named after the nearest village, now deserted. A remnant of the original forest that covered Europe in the Neolithic. A thin flap, it must be admitted only 84 hectares, about 29,685 National Park Plitvice Lakes. But what a show! This is where we encounter the oldest and largest trees in Croatia. The most venerable of these giants, a tree (but the place also has beech and spruce) displays impressive dimensions: 58 meters high, 1.5 meters in diameter and nearly 5 in circumference. This humbling ... Ranked special reserve in 1965 Corkova Uvala is closed to the general public. Only access small groups with permits, mostly scientists and students, eager to see what may look like a forest not drawn and wrought by the hand of man.

The soil in turn crisp or spongy, is lined with humus, leaves, trunks, branches, stumps. Situated on a karst plateau Dinaric, it is also strewn with rocks and canyons, ravines between which you have to slalom to progress. A natural cathedral, with transepts, bays, arches, columns and beams of light. Kresimir Culinovic, RPF Conservation Centre and Ivo Pevalek (governmental agency of the park), explains: "We talk of" primary forest "when the following phases can be identified: youth or regeneration (seedlings and young shoots) , maturity (mixed species growing), senescence (maximum size), death and decay, which will provide essential for the perpetuation of the cycle nutrients. Here, as in some other African countries (Finland, Poland, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Romania), all these phases are visible, even if it represents only a modest surface. It is for this reason that Corkova Uvala is monitored and protected. "
Yet it is not for this virgin forest and therefore rare that throng the 1.2 million annual visitors to the park (in this respect, avoid August, which may account for 10,000 entries per day) . The main attraction, and more easily accessible, consists of sixteen lakes which range between 500 and 650 meters, connected by 92 waterfalls and plenty of streams and rivers. The first twelve lakes are called "upper lakes" (Gornja jezera), the other four "Lower Lakes" (Donja jezera). A breathtaking panorama (1). A work of art you would think. This is one. But no other artist that nature, unlike the Japanese gardens. Although Aboriginal peddle another story. That of the Black Queen, mythical creature that ruled the scene in pagan times, when we saw an elf behind every tree or a monster, a sylph or a satyr.
To summarize the case, it was once a severe drought that affected the region of Plitvice. Not a drop for years: even the trees were dying. The former appealed to the Black Queen, a sylvan deity sometimes exauçait their vows. It intima them to repent of their sins and pray for the saving rain. Which they did. Touched, she shed two tears, which were the basis of the current White River and Black River, sources lakes.

Science being passed by, the reality is more prosaic and more complicated ...! If we put aside the wooded setting and lush vegetation, the specificity of the place lies in the geology and chemistry. Current barriers, tufa (or travertine) which allows the formation of pools and water retention, back to the end of the last glaciation, there 6000 or 7000 years. Because of the structure of the rocks (Karst and dolomite), lakes are saturated calcium bicarbonate. By mechanical and chemical effects, the flow of water in contact with calcium generates a limestone deposit: travertine. Dam so on which are agglomerate of algae and plants, as demonstrated by the Croatian Ivo Pevalek researcher (2) ... The fact is that the enchanted forest and lakeside necklace have continued to stimulate, or even ignite the imagination.
When Croatia became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the seventeenth century, the area was named Hortus Diabolus or the "Devil's Playground". Erected in Vojna Krajina (military frontier), buffer zone between the Ottomans and the Habsburgs, she welcomed all Slavs, from the east, fleeing the Turkish yoke and the Mohammedan religion, evil incarnations considered by the Christian populations of the time . These Balkan refugees, many Serbs, who then decided to locate in the region. A bomb that exploded in April 1991, during the bloody Easter Plitvice, who inaugurated the breakup of Yugoslavia. A clash between Serbian and Croatian police took two dead, causing the annexation of Krajina to Serbia by paramilitary militias. Who occupied it until the end of the civil war in 1995 (3). Here and there the ruins of calcined or rafalées and abandoned houses still bear witness to the violence of the fighting.
According to local beliefs, Plitvice would be conducive to disasters and supernatural events: during the four years of this conflict, it is claimed that several planes had simply disappeared while flying over the forested areas. The Bermuda Triangle would have his earthly equivalent in the Balkans.

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